Category Archives: Fashion

Q + A TIME

Whose world is this?

I love maps and flags. I have always found them intriguing. This meant both were innocently incorporated into my playtime with me being unaware of the economic, political and historical implications these presentations had. Unaware of inaccurate sizings and past borders.

It was probably the bright colours used for the separations that made the world seem inviting, and so in imagination games I would try and picture the way of life there. Or if I wished for the mood to become more logical, my playing would be consumed by lists of countries and capitals, attempts at matching countries to flags and placing countries in their rightful spaces. Flags are more than aesthetically appealing, they have hidden meanings from the past embedded in their colours and the objects they depict.

As time goes on, the borders that were once a complete mystery develop to becoming actualised in ways where you realise relations across countries, continents, and even regions are not as colourful as it once was assumed. There are things that have happened both within and between these places that have been purposefully forgotten. There are also others where it is maintained that “we must never forget!” in a bid to prevent the ills of history reoccurring. Wars. Wipe-outs. The marginalisation of identities. The dehumanisation of communities as a method to gain from their exploitation. Achieved, by reasoning they are lesser and therefore do not matter, or masked as a much-needed helping hand in place for their interests rather than an abuse of their human rights. The lack of praise, respect and acceptance for systems and people that are rural or indigenous. The demonisation of alternative ways of life and culture. The way in which the physical earth is disregarded as crucial so that its importance to the majority in charge is only apparent when it translates as currency. The list could go on and on. 

We will never be on the same page completely because with differences comes a difference in opinion, but as we all exist in it and have our connections to parts, understanding is key. I think it is a good sign when we can look into the implications and the histories behind a flag or a map while appreciating the unfamiliar names and the pretty colours too.

marry-for-money.tumblr.quote.world

world love

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Sustainable clothing by Iniy Sanchez. Made using a single thread so that it can be deconstructed once no longer wanted, to make way for something new!

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Must haves for a home at one point in life. Solitary moments spent planning getaways.

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Mappa by Alighiero Boetti.

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“Untitled” (Questions) by Barbara Kruger. 1991.

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BORD-ER. Burak Arikan. 2005.
Portrays restrictions and blurred lines. ‘A nation never is as sharp as its flag.’

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Butterfly wing mosaic.

Butterfly wing mosaic.

Meet the world by Icaro Doria.

Meet the world by Icaro Doria.

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La Haine.

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Q + A TIME

What is it about cars?

They are the one of just a few things that manage to transgress genders in childhood play. The best ones are angular – forget bubble cars. I love a boy racer, the classics that make you swoop your head round till you can no longer see it, a jeep, or anything in matt black. Cars can make brilliant adverts and this is especially true of the vintage posters, sometimes witty, sometimes corny but always beautifully conveyed. They make me think of road trips and freedom. They can double up as homes too.

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Loved by…

RAPPERS:
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PRISCILLA PRESLEY:

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MODELS:

a]c

b]c

c]c

d]c

c

BROADS:

a]c

 

b]c

 

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c]c

 

c

 

car1

 

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Models. a] Eva Herzigova by Terry Richardson for Harpers Bazaar magazine.

b] Vogue UK, 1991, by Arthur Elgort

c] Naomi Campbell

d] Kate Moss

Broads. a] Self Service magazine

b] Tuesday Weld in Los Angeles, 1965.

c] Jacquemus campaign a/w 2012. L’usine

 

…because less is MORE

less is more because more is a bore

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The Gold Painted Stripper by Weegee. 1950.

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Sophia Loren and Jayne Mansfield flauntin’.

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The good ol’ days of Burton. Edward Scissorhands. 1990.

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Girl and her pet monkey along the Arabian Sea. Mumbai, India.

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Deforestation.

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Brandi Quinones by Ellen Von Unwerth. 1999.

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Naomi putting it down!

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Anna Nicole Smith swingin’.

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Wrapped up in cotton. Still from Home. 2009. Yann Arthus-Bertrand.

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1960 by Dagoberto Martinez.

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Potts Point by Andrew Stark.

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People watching. Elliot Erwitt. Madrid, Spain. 1995. Clothed on the left, nude on the right.

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by Andrew Stark.

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2 More Minutes by Josef Smukrovich. 1962.

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Gli Italiani Si Voltano by Mario De Biasi. Milan. 1954. ‘The Italians turn’

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A stripper named Dee Light by George Silk. Wallingford, Connecticut. 1966.

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by Alba Yruela Xifro.

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Photo used for a Chakachas record cover. Chakachas LP. 1972.

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…because LESS is a snore

more is more because less is a snore

Arnie’s days of flexin’.

Helen Levitt. New York, 1988. Why not have 3 instead of 1?

 Helen Levitt. New York, c.1940. Why not play on top rather than down below?

Sippy Mask by Jennifer Maestre.

An Afar bride from Djibouti.

 

Naomi Campbell. Vogue Italia, July-August 1990.

Oxford Market. 1968.

Fruits by Luis Venegas. Madrid. 2010.

Condiment Magazine. Issue 1. 2010.

Edward Burtynsky. Factory Worker Dormitory. Dongguan, Guangdong Province, China. 2005.

Ryan O’Toole Collett. Barcelona, Spain. 2009. Go HERE.

Ello, ello, ello

Where the realms of public and private become intertwined.

60 Minutes Silence. Gillian Wearing. 1996.

Gillian Wearing – an artist known for her controversial and provocative art. Her work is the epitome of contemporary art, as it attempts to unearth issues in new and intriguing ways. I am not a particularly big fan of her work but do rather like this piece and used it to illustrate a point in a previous essay. Although it appears as a still image here and in most places on the internet, it is in actual fact a video installation, a mighty long one at that, racking up a total of sixty consecutive minutes. The officers, who are in actual fact volunteers, are made to sit or stand as still as they possibly can for the whole duration! For the minutes I have watched of it, they all seem to do the task justice but of course cracks begin to show. The initial stillness that is seen at the start, develops into slight motion as each officer allows their individuality to be shown through fidgets, twitches and facial expressions. It is interesting how it proves individuality breaks through the facade of uniform. One male participant lets out a significant scream at the end, reiterating the effect control has on the individual body.

Subcultures are always a fun topic to look at and with the Exactitudes project by Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek, this idea of uniform is explored further through photos of different subcultures from all over in their matching -yet slightly altered clothing. Group identity does not always have to be limiting, it can be a positive form of unity and clothing helps to establish it. Dress codes of specific groups is a way for individuals to belong while simultaneously expressing uniqueness from others. It is a type of catch 22 situation, as individuals attempt to be different but end up looking the same as those who are into the same sort of style or scene. The project began it 1994 with the pair photographing the gabba movement in Rotterdam. The photos are taken in a studio and when the people are approached they are asked to bring the outfit they are in, along with a few others, the outfit most suited to the look of the group is the one that makes the cut. In order to choose the pose of each group, they ask the individual who they believe best embodies the look to strike a few poses and pick the best one from the lot. Then all the rest of the participants of this subculture must follow suit and imitate the chosen stance. Look at the wonderful pattern made on their homepage, produced with the repetition of ‘personal’ identity.

All in all, a very cool project. The website lets you have a peek at them all in close detail so it is possible to see the individual through all the monotony.  Go HERE to explore more.

Gabbers. Rotterdam. 1994.

Gabberbitches. Rotterdam. 1996.

Flygirls. Rotterdam. 2002.

Brats. Rio de Janeiro. 2000.

Roffas. Rotterdam. 1999.

Bimbos. Rotterdam. 1996.

Massalas. Rotterdam. 1999.

Skaters. Rotterdam. 1997.

Chillers. Rotterdam. 1999.

Cappuccio Girls. Milano. 2011.

Uomo Espresso. Milano. 2011.

Donna Decaffeinata. Milano. 2011.

Social Club. Praia. 2004.

Showpieces. Beijing. 1989.

Mothercare. Casablanca. 2000.

Moroccies. Rotterdam. 1997.

Supporters. Rotterdam. 1997.

Boubou Logo. Evry. 2009.

Praise. Amsterdam. 2006.

Bonitas. Rotterdam. 1997.

Smas. Rotterdam. 1997.

The girls from Ipanema. Rio de Janeiro. 2000.

Bouncers. Rotterdam. 1998.

Butchers. Rotterdam. 1998.

Eurotrash or Eurofash?

Eurotrash is cool? Not that weird television programme from years ago – the one that was a little bit naughty, but Miguel Trillo’s snaps of youth fashion in Spain, in the years between 1981 and  1994. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Czxa5H3NuGs

Huelva

Getafe

Ciudad Real

Madrid

Teruel

Alcobendas

Bilbao

Alcoron